Prague Sep 30

This was a most interesting and unusual day. We started by following red trail makers and ended up crossing fences and a creek to access a road. After that we gave up on the markers and followed maps and instincts to get through Tabor. All day we saw lots of apples on the ground and hanging on trees by the roads and marked paths. Susie ate a lot.
By the early afternoon we arrived in Plana so we continued on to Kosice where I suggested that we stay even though it was only 2:30. Nevertheless we decided to try for accommodation in Brandin only to find that the lone farm hostel was full. Do we go back to Kosice or try something ahead.  We thumbed a ride into Tucapy and were thumbing to the closest lateral town when a fellow who lived right there offered to drive us onward.  He helped us book a penzion and then drove us there. He turned a developing disaster into a fortunate leap forward.

Prague Sep 29

After a long day yesterday, we planned a shorter walk today.  We thought that Sedlcany to Borotin might be okay. We walked to Sedlec Prcice, about 17km before noon, had a bite to eat there and continued to Borotin. We got there about 3:30 and tried to check into a penzion there only to find that they were closed until 5pm. So we continued on to Chotoviny where there is a big hotel.  We arrived around 5:30 which resulted in another long day about 36 km. Perhaps we can make tomorrow a short day.  Our walk today featured a mix of roads and trails but heavier to roads.  The Czech countryside is really nice.

Prague Sep 28

Today we got to see a lot of rural Czechia as we select two walking paths that avoided roads as much as possible.  The terrain was rolling and hilly with farms, forests and a few smart settlements on the path .  The only drawback was the length of the walk as both of us were tired  by the time we walked  to Sedlcany. Nevertheless we were rejuvenated after a shower and some food. At dinner tonight we saw why everyone seems to be drinking regular beer; it's the most inexpensive drink at about  $1.50 for half a litre. 

Prague Sep 27

We arrived in Prague at 6:38 am after a so-so sleep and coffee on the train.  Then we took the subway and bus to Pruhonice. There we found the Prague to Vienna Ğreenway and started walking. Initially we were on streets then on a dedicated bicycle and pedestrian path that seemed promising. Then we found ourselves on roads that were  too busy.  Then we left the greenway for other routes and found a nice path over a hill and to some ruins at Zboreny Kostelec. Tonight we staying in Tynec.

Prague Sep 26

Today we hiked up Mengusovska Valley and then Koprovsky peak; it was a tremendous hike with lots of view s. On our way we stopped at the Symbolic Cemetery of the Tatra Mountains. After the day of hike we went back to the hotel where we were invited to have a shower before checking out .  Lucy has been very generous. We then caught the local train to Poprad for dinner and to catch the night train to Prague. We got a sleeper with 2 bunk beds .

Prague Sep 25

This is almost the end of our hiking in the Tatra Mountains. Today we went up Mlynicka dolina and back down Furkotsa dolina.  Both valleys are beautiful and are separated by a rugged sharp ridge. The pass between the two valleys required us to pull ourselves up with chains to reach the ridge which was just big enough to accommodate 4 of us. Then we used another set of chains to help us start down the other side.

Tonight we had dinner at the hotel where we were served some typical Slovak dishes. It was really tasty and gave us ideas for cooking at home.

Prague Sep 24

This was the day that we hiked up Rysy which is on the Polish border.  Almost at summit there is a chalet and all the food etc is packed in by men. The loads at 76 kg are smaller than those in  Nepal but the trails are much more challenging making up for any difference in weight.  We met 4 American students near the summit and walked out a good way with them. They were studying for a semester in Budapest and were delight to talk with.  At Popradske Pleso we made a quick tour around the lake and ended up being invited for drinks by a couple of Slovak men.  We must have spent 2 hours learning about Slovakia and its people.  We also met one of their mothers and two other family members.  When we got to our pensione the hostess had the sauna ready for a pre-dinner heating. Dinner was a large pork knuckle for 2, just a kilogram albeit including the bone.  This was a most interesting day indeed.

Prague Sep 23

This is our first day of hiking from Strbske Pleso.  As the weather was good we opted to hike up Krivan which is the iconic mountain of Slovakia. With some snow on the path in the morning, it was tricky in many places.  There was a spot below the access ridge and another below the peak that required scrambling. It wasn't a piece of cake.  Nevertheless we made it along with about a 100 others.

Prague Sep 22

Today we moved from Hotel Smokovec to Strbske Pleso by hiking up to a chalet to the northwest then continuing further west and further upward. The forecast called for sun and no precipitation but we got hail and wind, and limited views. The hike took us up gradually  to over 1900m;  then we dropped down to Popradske Lake some 29 switchbacks and more than 500 metres lower. In Strbske Pleso we went directly to our hotel where we had a pleasant surprise.  The hostess said that the room booked was way more than we needed and changed us to another which saved us a lot.  The room was very nice and the hotel had many little extras.

Prague Sep 21

Today we planned a loop hike up a valley east of the one we hiked up yesterday and back down yesterday's valley.  Everything was going well, albeit rainy, until we started up the headwall. It got colder, wetter and windier. Finally the rocks on the trail were collecting ice so we turned back. This seemed not to bother over 100 others who we met on the way out.  Our decision was justified later when we saw that the peaks stayed shrouded in clouds all day; later we saw that the peaks were covered in snow.
Since our hike was shorter, we went to Poprad to see how non-tourist area works. It looked a lot like other towns anywhere especially in mall.

Prague Sep 20

Today we planned a loop hike up one alpine valley, then over a ridge and back down the adjacent valley.  About 4 hours out we lost the trail makers just about the place on our map that showed a change in the path to an ambiguous straight purple line.  So we followed a set of cairns  to the top of a ridge and nowhere else to go.  We started back and just where we had lost markers we saw hikers high above and then we found the markers. When we scrambled to the top of the ridge, we found ourselves standing on little more than a knife edge.  The way down the other side was a chimney that could only be used with its anchor chains and metal rungs set into the rock.  With trepidation, Susie grabbed the chains and rungs and made her way down.  It was nerve wracking as one slip could have resulted in an injury or worse.  As it turned out, we made it fine then completed a 10-hour hike. This is some of the best hiking that we have ever done.  Our maximum altitude today was about 2200 m.

Prague Sep 19

First day of hiking.  After sitting for a week  my body needs a little physical work.  So we started the day with breakfast in our hotel and started hiking a little after 8 am. The valley was socked in making us wonder if we would get any views today.  We lucked out as the day turned out to be perfect. We managed to reach the top of Mt Slavkovski 2452 m in 3h30m in partial sunshine.  The time given on the map was  5h15m so now we are calibrated.  The trail got above the trees quite quickly and we walked on rocks 3/4 of the time.  Now that we know a bit about the area, we decided to stay here in Stary Smokovec for 4 nights and then go to Strbske Pleso for 4 nights.

Prague Sep 18

Leaving Prague .
After organizing our tickets last night, we were able to have a nice relaxing breakfast before taking the tram to the train station. The Park Inn hotel has been excellent. The location, room, service and breakfast were great. Public transportation has been great for us.  It was clean, fast and reliable. Not to be economical; our train fare from Prague to Poprad, Slovakia was about  $18 each.  We were on 2 trains for over 7 hours and cover some 600 km.  From Poprad we tools a local commuter train to Stary Smokovec and booked into a hotel. That's when I noticed that I had lost my 220 volt adapter and started to worry about not having able to post to our blog.  After talking to the hotel staff I learners that there were no adapters in town to buy or borrow. Later the lights went on.  The TV had a USB port and it could be connected to the phone and Susie's Garmin. 

Prague Sep 17

Last day of a great meeting.  As tired as people are they are still actively participating in the sessions. The session that I chaired even had a bit of heat.  My talk was well received. After getting back to the hotel we got information about the train to the Tatra Mountains on Sunday. We rode the tram to the train to where we nought our train tickets. Then it time to arrange our belongings in preparation for leaving on Sunday. My load got lighter by jettisoning a pair of old runners.

Prague Sep 16

Heme oxygenase meeting day 3.  This is a very good meeting and they worked us hard. It is humbling to be reminded of how much I don't know.  This evening we went directly from the meeting to the group dinner.  As expected they had a ton of tasty food but they served wine and the beer drinkers had to ask for beer.  I assumed that they would have started with beer because they are so proud their world leading annual consumption.
We walked back from the dinner because it was such a beautiful evening.  The walk to our destination was only about 15 minutes longer than the bus ride going there.

Prague Sep 15

Full day of research meetings from 8 am to 7:15 pm.  That's a long day.  Susie spent the day sightseeing.  She went to Wenceslas Square only to find the star attraction covered in scaffolding.

Prague Sep 14

First day of Kanji's meeting although the morning was free.   We walked up to the little Eiffel Tower and got some great views of the city.  We then found maps that describe the trail to Vienna and Bratislava.  There was a welcoming reception at which we were treated to a concert of classical music by a pentet.  They were amazing especially the lead violinist;  she could make the violin do anything including chirp like a bird.

Prague Sep 13

Today we took a guided tour of Prague. Unlike many other guided tours we walked around other than when we were on the boat ride.  It was a pretty good tour with the most exciting part being losing a memorable near the end. The city was crawling with tourists even though this is supposed to be the shoulder season.  The Charles Bridge shown here was a pedestrian traffic jam. 

Prague Sep 12

The AC Rouge flight from Toronto was fine although I didn't get much sleep in front of 2 vocal boys.  Our luggage was out by the time we cleared customs.  We decided to take public transport to the hotel.  At the information desk they told us that all we had to do was show our passports if asked and we could ride for free because of our age.  We took the bus to the metro then rode the metro down town.  As we came up to street level a young man with perfect English helped us find the right tram. Then another man with his son helped us getting off right at our hotel.  We checked in washed up and rested, and then became real tourists.  We have been across the Charles Bridge.  Their bread and beer are excellent; their bread impressed us more than the beer.