Lisbon to Toronto

This marks the end of one of our best holidays. It's been such a change from our usual routine that it's recharged our personal batteries. At the same time we have had our needs for hiking satisfied; the extra two days to the Fisherman's Trail terminus in Lagos was just the icing that this cake needed.

We walked to the airport and did the usual check in. We also took pictures of our bamboo hiking sticks that we used for the last two weeks. Good thing too because they took them away at security. Now it's just hurry up and wait.

Lagos to Lisbon

We started the day with a leisurely breakfast at our original hotel and then went back to the second hotel to brush our teeth and pack for the bus to Lisbon. On the way, Gramie stopped at the original hotel to complain about our accommodation.

After getting to the bus station we went into the farmers market adjacent. Lots of produce and plants. We caught the Flixbus to Lisbon and are enjoying an pleasant ride on roads without potholes. A lot of the land is used for grazing cattle.

Lagos a lazy rest day.

Last night, I booked our bus ride and next hotel in Lisbon so we can just poke along. The first thing will be to walk to our original hotel for a nice slow breakfast.

Salema to Lagos

We got an early start because the day's walk was long and unknown. Previous reports of an easy walk were a bit misleading because we still had plenty of valleys to climb and descend . After about two hours we came to a stream that required us to cross on a pile of stones. I took my pack across first, then helped Gramie and then went back for her pack. This was also the first day of carrying our full packs because I wasn't able to arrange for their transfers. We waited while others crossed with some people taking it very slowly. Actually the crossing was poorly designed because people had added more rocks over time. As a result the stone crossing had become a stone dam. Openings should have been left to keep the water level lower. But it wasn't my job to rebuild the crossing so I just used and commented.

At noon we stopped at a restaurant for a full breakfast because our hotel provided only a bit of food. As we sat their David from Scotland joined us and we had a nice long chat. After eating we climbed a big hill and kept going on to Luz Beach. After that the terrain became easier but we were very tired on arrival at our hotel in Lagos. Then we were accommodated at another hotel because of another clerical error. That's three times on this trip that we have had to use a different hotel.

Sagres to Salema

This was the first day after the end of the arranged tour. That meant being responsible for booking a room and luggage transfers. The paths were well marked and the scenery was excellent. I know the scenery is pretty much like the last several days but we're not tired of it. The previous reports were accurate as the numerous valleys made for many ups and downs along the trail. By the time we arrived in Salema, we were tired.

Then booking a flight home was frustrating because the airline computer had difficulty accepting my credit card. After the third card the flight was booked. Very frustrating.

Vila do Bispo to Sagres

This was a short and pleasant walk, mostly along trails through the woods. We knew that we would get to the cape so we asked the tour company for advice. They suggested accepting the transfer service to avoid walking along a busy road. We rode into Sagres with a couple of guys from Germany who were staying at the same hotel.

After booking in we took a walk around a point of land to check out the terrain. 

The cape was a very busy place.

Carrapateira to Vila do Bispo

We didn't sleep as well as we should have because the fire alarm went off last night. The fire truck didn't come. One of the other guests called the owner who happened to be away in the Azores. She called an employee who eventually came over and dealt with the alarm. It's a good thing that it was a false alarm. 

After a good breakfast we walked through town and picked up the Fisherman's Trail and walked to the ocean. After that we got lots of great views as we made our way up and down the many hills. Because of the number of small streams, there were lots steep gullies to go down and back up. But the views made it all worthwhile and then some. After lunch, we got up on a plateau where the walking was very easy. Even though we had left the ocean, the scenery was pleasant with nice pine trees and wild flowers.

Since we had more than enough time, we stopped and rested in the grass. The walk all the way into town was offroad, which was nice.

When we arrived at the hotel, they didn't have a room because of their mistake. So they got us a room in a nearby hotel: but we still get our breakfast in the original hotel.

We ate dinner at a nearby restaurant where we saw others from the previous town. We sat next to a young couple from Germany who were playing a German card game. They were good fun.

Carrapateira extra

I booked a further day of accommodation in Salema a few minutes ago. So that puts us closer to Lagos, which is one end of the Fisherman's Trail.

We had a great dinner at the Microbar. Portobello and goat cheese salad with a Bistro burger. The latter comes with bacon and egg.

Carrapateira circle walk

Today they scheduled us for a circle around the point; it was labeled as 12km. We extended that by taking all the side trips possible. Gramie probably did 20km and I did less to to give my ankle some rest. We saw much more water front.

It was a treat not having to pack up for one day.

We plan to visit the same restaurant because of their goat cheese and Portobello salad.

Arrifana to Carrapateira

Today we had to make our way back to the Fisherman's Trail from our hotel, which was a few km on streets and roads. Then we were back near the ocean with its great views. After this the trail curved inland through very pleasant countryside with lots of interesting flowers and shrubs.

At one point we had to cross a small steam on a board, which resulted in Gramie stepping in the water and filling her boots. This required a brief stop to empty her boots and wring out her socks.

In the afternoon we came to the star of today's show - the beach before Carrapateira. The wind was strong, which made for beautiful waves all along the beach. At the end of the beach there was a stream to cross, which most people waded through. The water was well over their knees so we decided to walk upstream to a shallower crossing. It still meant going barefoot and then trying to get back into our boots after dealing with the sand. Then it was only a km to our hotel. But it was via sandy paths. We have walked on sand for what seemed like hundreds of km on this trip. Practically every video on the Fisherman's Trail has mentioned the sand. We brought our gaiters but a surprising number of hikers did not and had to stop periodically to empty their shoes.

Dinner tonight included a great Portobello and goat cheese salad. 

Aljazur to Arrafana

We had a nice breakfast at our hotel next to a couple from Belgium whom we have seen earlier. Knowing that I would need calories, I asked for three fried eggs rather than the usual two. This along with everything else made for a filling breakfast.

On our walk out of town, we hiked up to the castle for the views. Then it was an uneventful walk on roads to the ocean. Then the scenery improved dramatically. We were back along the Atlantic Ocean for a few hours. After that we walked inland to our hotel through trees and shrubs but away from cars. We were at our hotel early today, just after 3 pm.

Odecexe to Aljazur

Our accommodation last night was great. The unit had a bedroom, mini-kitchen, loft, sitting area and a balcony. At breakfast we talked to a German couple who identified us as the old couple who are in great condition. We asked how they knew that we are in our eighties and they said that they talked with other hikers. We also walked with three sisters and two sisters from Germany. At the end of the day we met up with the two sisters again and walked the last six km into Aljazur. They are great company; we exchanged email addresses.

The weather today was actually on the hot side - over 20C for sure. The first section on the ocean was spectacular again. We saw many storks nesting on the cliffs, how many nests can you find in the picture? The last 2/3 was not nearly as interesting but was easy walking. No sand. Just like every other day, we arrived at our destination around 4 pm.

Zambujeira do Mar to Odeceixe

What can I say? The weather continues to be perfect. Sunny and warm but not hot. Today was a advertised as a moderate to strenuous day of 19 km. It took us along the Atlantic Ocean for most of the day with great view after great view most of the day. We saw lots of storks in their nests, some had eggs that we could see.

We continue to meet lots of interesting people, many Germans and Dutch with a few Canadians thrown in. Our flags are working to invite conversation, which was the reason for attaching them to our packs. We walked the last half hour with two German sisters.

Walking through the shrubbery was a nice break from the sun too.

Our room today has a mini-kitchen so we ate some food from a store rather than another restaurant.

Almograve to Zambujeira do Mar

Today was listed as a strenuous hike of 22 km, which we thought might be taxing. It turned out to be easier than we expected. The walk was mostly at one level - at the top of the cliffs overlooking the ocean. The weather was perfect again.

The views were spectacular all day. Lots of interesting rock formations, waves with foam and storks nesting in the cliffs.

We chatted with a good number of people today, from Germany, Netherlands and UK. A lady from the Netherlands told us that the original Fisherman's Trail went through to Faro. It sounded like we should continue our trek beyond Sagres and on to Faro.

Vila Nova de Milfontes to Almograve

Another perfect Day of weather, sunny and warm. The start of the walk was through the town and then over a bridge to area with olive shrubs and trees as the major plants. The density of olives on the branches was amazing. No wonder they make so much olive oil here.

Today was supposed to be a 15 km walk so we took every opportunity to take a side trip. By doing that we probably made it a 20 km day. Our longest side trip was down to a beach until the sand ended. Then we walked back to a spot with ropes to help us back to the top of the cliffs.

We are in our hotel, showered and getting hungry.

Porto Covo to Vila Nova de Milfontes

What a great start. The breakfast buffet was very good with eggs, bacon, sausage, fruit, yogurt and all sorts of other things. It gave us good fuel for today's walk. The temperature was perfect, warm but not hot; no rain.

The views were spectacular all day. 

There are more hikers than I expected, says a lot for the trail. Many of the tourists are from Germany, probably over half of those who we talked with today.

At the end of the day, we went to talk to a fisherman who caught a second fish while we watched.

Our hotel was over a km from the start of the trail making the day's walk about 21km. The sand gives us a workout.

Lisbon to Porto Covo

Arrival in Lisbon was so smooth and on schedule. But our back packs were slow to arrive at the baggage carousel, and it was a very long way from the plane to the baggage pickup. That put us late at the bus that could have taken us to Porto Covo directly. As a result, we had to take a train to Sete Rios to catch a different bus to Porto Covo. When we walked into our hotel there, we didn't have a room. Mac's Adventures changed hotels but didn't inform the clients; three other parties also had the same problem.

Our new hotel had the most interesting wood sculpture in the lobby. Blair will like it.

Over dinner we met a Polish couple who had moved to Andalusia. It sounds like a great place to visit.

Kingston to Lisbon

We left Kingston by bus at 12:30 and were in Terminal 4 at 4:20. After checking in we went to Plaza lounge to hangout, eat and drink. The food was okay and the wine was very nice. We had a nice chat with a couple of young girls who turned out to be ENT docs; not as young as we first thought.

Sunrise before Lisbon was spectacular.